After over a 10 year gap I finally got a weeks boating in the French alps, note I said a weeks boating the last trip in 2008 was cut short after 2 days by mega high water levels and a paddling ban enforced by the local gendarmerie. The good things from the last trip; location (Serre Chevalier), company (Cheltenham CC) and time of year (May 1/2 term) we repeated and crossed our fingers for saner water levels. Fortunatley the river gods were kind and we were treated to excellent to high (but paddleable) levels on most sections.
After catching an earlier eurotunnel than expected, 10:30 not 11:50!, we motored south through the night and arrived in resort at lunchtime in blazing sunshine – things were looking good. A quick recce of the river levels and we headed up the valley to do the upper Guisane which conveniently finished at our appartments. Shorty cags, bright blue skies and a great section of grade 3 to warm up to the alpine experience.
That first afternoon set the pattern for the next couple of days as we were treated to gorgeously sunny weather and some great paddling as we worked our way through some classic sections of alpine water including the Upper Guil, Lower Durance & Onde.
After the upper Guil day the weather took a turn for the worse and rain closed in bringing up the levels – particularly on the Guil. We took full advantage and after staring rather too long at a munchy looking Triple Step, we launched below.
From the off it the water felt powerful and pushy, eddy lines were boily and the holes had that bit more bite too them! No one seemed eager to take the lead and probe the routes so I drew the short straw and headed downstream – it was 11 years since I had paddled this section and a vastly different water level. Fortunately the lines remained open and despite the power of the water everyone was hitting their chosen routes, all was good and I relaxed a little. All too soon though we arrived at the Staircase, a hard rapid at normal flows, today it was 500m of whitewater chaos with massive holes and technical route finding in the 1st half before heading left through yet more steep whiteness. We decided to portage the 1st section – too many moves too close together with limited support possible. Launching below the crux of the upper and into the relatively easier? section was still an exciting blast was we blasted through and around some large holes. The drift of the current was very strong towards the outside of the bend and hard paddling was required to stay online, this caught Ali out as she got nailed by the stopper and pushed into the wall. The throwbag crew quickly bagged her and I ended up solo chase boating after her paddles which I quickly retrieved, the boat was abandoned to the river gods as there was no opportunity to rescue it.
We continued downriver and were soon at “Le Tunnel”, this used to be Letterbox. Whilst scouting the best eddy to get out in I heard a cry of swimmer, looking up Carl was the victim and was being swept towards us quickly. I quickly set up with my line and fortunately bagged him first go, the following rapid would not have been nice to swim through – an evil looking walled in stopper lurked in the bottom and it would be all too easy to end up in it. Carl was now also boatless and some others had decided to stop while they were ahead so we merged into one smaller group. Continuing down still chunky grade 4 we got some good news from the bank crew folllowing us – Ali and Carls boats had been located and were beign rescued. By this point someone had called the local Fire Brigade (it was certainly none of us)and they were all too eager to get involved in our rescue of the pinned boat. We quickly completed the kit recovery before they got involved – ropes and water are enough to worry about without random French Sapeurs-pompiers getting involved. From here it wasn’t long to the take out and after such an intense but excellent day on the water we retired to a cafe and then appartment for well earned beers.
After such a long day on the water the following day was decided to be a rest day. All things are relative though as we ticked off 3 sections! Upper Claree, Briancon gorge and Lower Guisane, the latter in 26 minutes. The following day we did the long drive to the Ubaye – over the Col D’Izouard again – abnd discovered they had even more water than the Briancon area. The plan quickly evolved from Upper Ubaye and Racecourse to Upper Ubaye and Upper Upper Ubaye. Launching into the 1st rapid was like jumping on a swollen lower Oetz, with big heavy water full of silt and grit scratching your eyes! Unlike the Otz it soon calmed down to pleasantly spaced rapids with lots of room to regroup. All too soon we were at the takeout above La Fresquiere – this looked monsterous as the river thundered down and around the bend in tremendous rapids. No volunteers to run it today!
The Friday was spent on the local classics and on the Saturday most of the cars departed that morning for the ferry. We still had the best part of a day to paddle due to a sunday morning eurotunnel so another 3 river day happened. Middle Claree, Briancon gorge at a stunning level and finishing off with a 23minute speed descent of the Lower Guisane. Remember kids running grade 4 blind in a single large group without eddying out isn’t big or clever. Perhaps not the safest or most sensible run of the river but undeniably good fun.
Thanks to everyone that came on the trip and made it such a great week. As I was mostly on the water I didn’t take many of the photos in this post – they should be individually credited but thanks to: Abi Croshaw (who stole my lens!), Katy Warren, Pete Bogle and Steve Slater for the photos.